Skip to content
All writing

What consolidation did to other fragmented food categories

By Robert Jones

Specialty coffee in the Gulf is where a number of fragmented food and drink categories have been before: hundreds of small operators, strong consumer demand, and almost nobody at a scale that can set terms with anybody.

Those categories did not stay that way. It is worth looking at what happened to them, including the parts that did not work, because the alternative is pretending this industry is unprecedented when it is not.

Craft brewing is the closest parallel

American craft brewing through the 2010s is the most documented example and the most instructive, because the resemblance is close: a young industry, a quality-led consumer proposition, founders who started for love of the product, and an economics problem underneath that most operators could not solve alone.

Large brewers bought into it substantially. Anheuser-Busch InBev assembled a portfolio of craft breweries under a dedicated division called The High End, beginning with Goose Island in 2011 and continuing through a run of regional acquisitions — 10 Barrel, Devils Backbone, Four Peaks, Golden Road, Wicked Weed. Heineken took a half stake in Lagunitas in September 2015 and closed on the remainder in May 2017. Constellation Brands bought Ballast Point in 2015 for a reported billion dollars, the largest acquisition of its kind.

What the acquirers wanted was mostly not the brewing. It was distribution economics — access to shelf and tap, freight, procurement, and the ability to put a regional brand into national channels. That is a familiar shape: the value was in the infrastructure the independent could not build.

What went well, and what did not

Some of it worked. Brands that were capacity-constrained got access to production and distribution they could never have funded, and reached markets that were closed to them. For a number of founders it was the only route to a scale their product deserved.

Ballast Point is the cautionary case, and it is worth understanding properly rather than as a punchline. Constellation bought at the top of the market, the craft segment's growth slowed, and the brand did not perform as projected. Four years later it was sold to Kings & Convicts, a Chicago-area brewery founded in 2017 and considerably smaller than the business it was buying. The price was never disclosed; industry reporting put it at somewhere around sixty-eight million dollars. The usual reading is that the acquirer overpaid. The more useful reading is that the thesis — that a regional brand could be scaled nationally through a large distribution network — did not survive contact with consumers who cared where their beer came from.

Because that is the other thing that happened: a meaningful segment of craft drinkers actively rejected acquired brands. Some bar accounts dropped them. Independence became a marketing position, and in June 2017 the Brewers Association formalised it with an Independent Craft Brewer Seal — an upside-down bottle that breweries could put on their packaging to signal they were not owned by anybody large. Four hundred and thirty-two breweries signed up on the first day. The acquisition itself damaged the asset in a way that did not show up in any model.

What transfers to coffee, and what does not

Transfers: the underlying economics. Procurement, production utilisation, distribution and back office all reward scale, and no amount of quality at a single site changes that. Independents in both industries hit the same wall for the same reasons.

Transfers: the observation that the acquirer's discipline decides the outcome. The deals that went badly were generally the ones where a large corporate paid for growth projections and then applied a playbook built for a different kind of product.

Does not transfer, or transfers weakly: the independence backlash. Craft beer's consumer identity was built substantially in opposition to large brewers — that was the category's founding story. Specialty coffee does not have the same oppositional identity, and in this region it particularly does not; most customers have no idea who owns the roastery whose coffee they are drinking, and a significant share of the market is B2B, where the buyer is a procurement decision rather than an identity statement.

Does not transfer: the buyers. Craft brewing was consolidated largely by global beverage corporations. There is no equivalent sitting over Gulf specialty coffee, which means consolidation here, if it happens, will be done by operators rather than by strategics — a different kind of buyer with different incentives and a different failure mode.

The honest lesson

Consolidation in a fragmented food category is neither rescue nor betrayal. It is a structural response to an economics problem that individual operators cannot solve, and its outcomes have varied enormously depending on who did it and how.

What separates the good outcomes from the bad ones is not size and not price. It is whether the acquirer understood what they were buying. The deals that failed were mostly ones where something specific and locally rooted was purchased and then treated as a scalable unit of a larger machine.

For an owner in this region weighing what comes next, that is the thing worth interrogating. Not whether consolidation is good or bad in the abstract, but whether the particular people on the other side of the table know what makes your business work — and whether they can tell you, specifically, what they intend to change and what they do not.

Told when there is something new

Roughly one piece a fortnight on the economics of running and selling a coffee business in this region. No other mail, ever, and one click to stop.